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Annie Smithers announces month-long festival to celebrate 10 year anniversary

Words by Richard Cornish
Images supplied

Annie Smithers is a force of nature. The author, broadcaster, farmer and chef has been championing real seasonal and local cuisine in Central Victoria for decades. She opened the doors to her Trentham restaurant Du Fermier 10 years ago and to celebrate she is closing the restaurant for the month of May.

Instead, she is holding a month-long mini-festival to celebrate the farmers who supply her kitchen, the winemakers who fill her cellar and the women who have mentored her or supported her in the kitchen during her career.

Food Festival TrenthamThe recipe writer for The Saturday Paper and resident chef for Blueprint for Living on ABC Radio National grows much of her fruit and veg at her Lyonville farm, Babbington Park, 10km from Daylesford. The lamb she cooks comes from a farm she can see from her kitchen garden and is grown by farmer Bruce Rolfe. He and Annie are doing an all-day lamb masterclass on May 18 which includes morning tea and a three-course lunch with wine and loads of dishes cooked with tender, sweet, and beautifully full-flavored Suffolk lamb. Annie is also doing a pork, beef, duck and chicken masterclass.

One of the big ticket events is the Mother’s Day Lunch with Stephanie Alexander on Sunday 14th May. Annie spent her early years cooking under Stephanie Alexander at her Hawthorn restaurant and the two have remained close since. They celebrate Mother’s Day with a four-course meal. Annie’s du Fermier is normally open for lunch, but for May only she is opening her doors for Friday night dinner on 5th, 12th, and 19th May.

Expect candles, shared plates and beautiful evening meals cooked with autumnal produce from the kitchen garden. On May 6th and 13th Annie is baking and making charcuterie for her French-style Petite Marche or little market where customers buy produce direct from Annie’s kitchen. Annie is also throwing an afterparty for the Trentham SpudFest starting at 5.30pm where she’ll be serving up her own rendition of potato cakes and pouring vodka made with Trentham potatoes. Gascony is one of Annie’s favourite regions of France and she is revisiting the trips on which she toured the auberges and taverns tasting the traditional dishes, and the honest food of the farmhouses. On Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st she is holding a five-course Gascon feast complete with wine and a limited-edition book about the food of Gascony.

“Du Fermier is all about cooking exceptional fresh produce from the farm and surrounding farms,” says Annie. “This month of celebrations is about putting the people who support our beautiful little French farmhouse style restaurant in a historic weatherboard shop front and foremost.”

THE DETAILS

Who: Celebrity chef Annie Smithers
Where: Du Fermier, Trentham
What: Thirty days of events celebrating local and seasonal produce with a very accomplished chef
When: Month of May 2023
Why: Exclusive and one-off events
More info: Annie Smithers

We wish to acknowledge the Dja Dja Wurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Whether you play golf or not, these stylish Bellarine rooms will lift your getaway game

Words by Danielle Phyland
Images supplied

There is no mistaking the primary purpose here as you round the sweeping driveway and are greeted by rolling greens, sand traps and a perfectly manicured putting green. Curlewis Golf Course is positioned on the Bellarine Peninsula, just a short 15-minute drive from Geelong.

Purchased in July 2015, by renowned local hospitality business operators, Lyndsay and David Sharp, whose CV includes Bellarine’s Jack Rabbit Vineyard and Flying Brick Cider Co, there have been some significant improvements to elevate the food experience alongside the quality of the golf course. Curlewis Golf Course now comfortably sits in the top 100 course rankings in Australia thanks to the new owners’ investment both on and off the green. Casual players and club members take to the course which is ranked #21 in Golf Australia magazine’s Top-100 Public Access Courses for 2022 -2023. The coastal landscape offers glimpses of Corio Bay from some of the fairways and where the wind can often shift the degree of difficulty of the course on any given day.

Curlewis Golf Club

Guest check-in takes place in the multi-purpose Clubhouse where friendly staff provide detailed instructions and map out the stay. The building is designed in such a way that it compliments the natural surroundings, heavily featuring stone and wood on the interior and exterior. The fully accessible Clubhouse is also home to the Pro Shop, Ivor’s Spike Bar and the Claribeaux Restaurant.

Once checked in guests enter the spacious dining room lined with floor-to-ceiling windows that immediately draw the eye to the expansive views across the golf course, particularly stunning as the sun sets. As its name indicates there is a strong French influence at The Claribeaux Restaurant, whose chefs focus on using sustainable local ingredients to offer a high-quality dining experience. A meal here is the perfect reward after a day of chasing a golf ball (or two) around the fairways or simply a lovely dining experience upon arrival. The restaurant takes its name from Alfred Claribeaux Curlewis, son of the European settlers who came to Australia in 1824 and established the local township. Guests choose from a succinct menu of leading dishes that hero local produce aligned with the seasons. The wine list is littered with creations from the Sharp Group wineries (Jack Rabbit, Leura Park, Yes Said the Seal) plus plenty of other wines, beers, ciders, gins and more from both local and international makers.

Golfing Bellarine Peninsula

Overlooking the golf course is a series of one and two-storey modular accommodation blocks containing sleek, stylishly finished rooms collectively sleeping up to 120 guests. Entering the room guests are greeted by the fresh, monochrome space complete with lux furnishings including Marimekko cushions, crisp linens, velvety bath robes and Sealy custom-made beds. Australian artist Eleanor Millard’s work hangs uniformly above the bed, their simple subjects complement the minimalist furniture and layout of the space. The Australian theme continues in the amenities with shower products by Orana featuring Australian essential oils, to help create a sense of place and revive body, mind and spirit.

Golfing Bellarine Pninsula

Eager golfers gather for breakfast in the dining room and excitedly chatter about the day ahead on the course that stretches out just beyond the windows of the dining room. The neat breakfast menu fuels guests for the day ahead with generous dishes made with locally sourced ingredients. For ongoing grazing, Ivor’s Spike Bar offers casual drinks and snacks during the day plus a selection of sundown snacks which are best enjoyed on the outdoor deck with a chilled glass of bubbly as the sun sets.

Curlewis Golf Club is conveniently located close to many attractions on the Bellarine Peninsula including Ket Bakery, Flying Brick Cider Co, Bellarine Smokehouse and numerous wineries not to mention the protected bayside beaches. The Bellarine Rail Trail is a great all-access path for running, walking and cycling conveniently situated at the rear of the Curlewis site.

THE DETAILS

What: Golfing on the Bellarine
Where: Curlewis Golf Course, 1201 – 1345 Portarlington Road, Curlewis, Vic
More info: Curlewis Golf

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Beechworth’s Michael Ryan to open exclusive Amaro Bar

Words by Richard cornish
Images supplied

Award-winning chef Michael Ryan and his wife and sommelier Jeanette Henderson are opening an exclusive bar above their Beechworth restaurant Provenance.

It will focus on different styles of the Italian digestivo amaro. “We have been working on this concept for some time,” says Michael. “Jeanette wanted a project involving our love of amaro,” he says. Michael started selling his own amaro during the Covid lockdown, blending different aromatic botanicals and steeping them in alcohol. The reception was red hot and Beechworth Bitters was born. The very adult and very aromatic Beechworth Bitters were embraced by the top bartenders in the country and are now poured in bars across the nation.

Amaro Bar will also be a tasting room for Beechworth Bitters but will also serve local wines and a range of cocktails. The intimate bar will be set in the beautiful and warm space above the Provenance dining room and will only seat around a dozen people on lounges. Michael is working on a small tapas-style menu of salty snacks such as olives and anchovies. “Bitters love salty food,” says Michael. He has managed to source a mid-century Italian bar that balances a fine line between kitsch and chic. He claims to have found it an abandoned farmhouse in the region.

Amaro Bar

Although Michael and Jeanette will be serving Italian bitters and a Spanish-influenced menu Amaro Bar embraces the spirit of the small, eccentric Japanese bars that the pair have become so fond of on their recent trips to Japan. “There’s a bar in the back streets of Tokyo that has a sign on the front door that reads, “If I’m open, I’m open. If I’m closed I am not here”, says Michael with a laugh. “I want Amaro Bar to be like that.”

Amaro Bar will open after Easter. In the meantime, Michael is enjoying the bounty of the late Autumn season in his kaiseki style Japanese influenced menu at his awarding winning Provenance restaurant.

THE DETAILS

What: Small, quirky bar serving amaro, wine and cocktails
Who: Chef Michael Ryan and wife and sommelier Jeanette Henderson
Where: 86 Ford St, Beechworth (above Provenance dining room in 1860s bank in Beechworth)
When: After Easter
Why: A beautiful room with personalised cocktail service from one of Australia’s best chefs
More info: The Provenance

We wish to acknowledge the traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Renowned Peninsula Chef takes the reins at new Queenscliff food offering TARRA

Words by Della Vreeland
Images Chris McConville

One of the Mornington Peninsula’s most renowned chefs is set to take the helm at the latest premier restaurant launching in Queenscliff in time for winter.

Chef Michael Demagistris will take the lead as executive chef at the new restaurant TARRA – opening as part of the multimillion-dollar redevelopment of the Queenscliff Ferry Terminal on the Bellarine.

Michael Demagistris

Operated by Searoad Ferries, the 60-seat contemporary coastal dining experience will boast a menu that not only showcases the finest local produce and seasonal ingredients, but the wealth of experience that Chef Michael will bring to the fold.

Having previously worked at some of Australia’s most prestigious restaurants including Jacques Reymond, Chef Michael’s passion for food has seen him travel the world, working in venues such as Alinea, The Publican and Noma.

Known for his innovative approach to cooking and extensive use of local produce, he says he is looking forward to bringing his passion and expertise to TARRA Queenscliff and developing a menu that highlights the Bellarine’s produce while emphasising his love of foraging.

With a menu inspired by the ocean, land and change of seasons, diners can expect to savour innovative dishes that highlight Chef Michael’s affinity for exploration and interesting ingredients including sea succulents, kelp, samphire, and wild berries.

“I can’t wait to create some truly memorable dishes for our guests,” he says.

Chef Michael will take the reins alongside Head Chef Ryan James who will work with the TARRA team to craft a fresh food vision and menu to transform the restaurant into a unique dining destination.

TARRA is located on the ground floor of the new Queenscliff building – the iconic, architectural, state-of-the-art building that was opened earlier this year and houses Tarra store, food offering and Searoad Ferries.

Sitting against the stunning Port Phillip Bay backdrop, the terminal features a sleek, sophisticated coastal feel that complements the surrounding views with an internal design that equally oozes style and poise.

Bellarine Restaurant

The TARRA team will be give insight into the menu with a cooking demonstration at a Community Open Day held on April 22, which also includes live music, kids entertainment and prize giveaways.

Searoad Ferries COO Dwight Harrison says he was thrilled to have Chef Michael on board and was looking forward to the restaurant’s official opening.

“His passion and his commitment to delivering exceptional dining experiences align perfectly with our vision for the restaurant,” Dwight says.

“The internal fit-out of TARRA is of the highest quality that perfectly complements the surrounding natural environment and we can’t wait for it to be officially opened.”

Australia’s busiest vehicle ferry service, Searoad Ferries, car and passenger ferry service sails between Queenscliff and Sorrento with over 8,200 crossings annually and carries over 950,000 passengers.

THE DETAILS:

WHAT: TARRA Queenscliff
WHEN: The new terminal opens April 20 (Community Open Day – April 22) and TARRA restaurant opening scheduled for mid-year.
FIND OUT MORE: Tarra

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Modern Indian-Australian fusion dining experience opens on the Great Ocean Road

Words by Anthea Riskas
Images supplied

First came the accommodation, then the day spa and now the team at Sunnymead in Aireys Inlet have revealed the final piece of their coastal experience puzzle – their restaurant Santara.

This intimate, warm-hued space is tucked between reception and the guest rooms and invites diners to sample the fusion menu that takes subcontinent classics and gives them an overtly Australian twist.

To start why not try a traditional Indian snack, pani puri? A golden, hollow dough ball, that in this instance is filled with prawns, Yarra Valley caviar and a pop of yuzu to make the crunch and seafood really sing as it breaks open with a single bite.

Great Ocean Road Restaurant

Moving on to mains, your eyes do not deceive you when you read “King Oyster Mushroom and Vegemite Butter”. When they say “fusion” they really mean it, and this dish is silky, unctuous, salty and satisfying. You really ought to try it before you knock it.

The Chicken Ruby curry is tender, sweet and textured courtesy of the addition of pomegranate and the beef of the Sticky Shin Taco falls straight off the bone and into your mouth, just like it should because you simply must eat this dish with your fingers.

The absolute savoury standout for us though, is the Onion Bhaji. This side dish may seem simple, but it’s deceptively hard to execute well and Santara have nailed it. Perfectly sized and sliced, crispy and light and oh to have been a fly on the wall when Executive Chef Adam Cooke (we know right?) announced to the kitchen he was going to sprinkle chicken salt on it. Delicious!

Yes, you want to leave room for dessert, Indian spices line up against European classics, but the Chai Roasted Peaches is our pick, with cream ice cream and honey from local hive Apiary.

Nearby producers also feature heavily on the drinks menu, wines are well-priced by the bottle and the cocktail list is as playful as the food, with a nod to a secret nearby surf break created with neighbours Great Ocean Road Gin and an absolute belter by Chef Pratik who’s mashed up vodka, white rum, cucumber juice and garam masala.

Santara

By Springtime the Santara team plan to be trading 5 days a week, but for now, all are welcome to book dinner on Friday and Saturday nights – whether you’re staying at Sunnymead, exploring the Great Ocean Road or are lucky enough to call yourself a “local”.

THE DETAILS

Who: Santara
What: Modern, Indian-Australia fusion and fun cocktails
Where: Sunnymead Hotel, Aireys Inlet
Open: Friday & Saturday for Dinner
More Info: Santara

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Our guide to the best of West Gippsland that’ll have you loving it as much as a local

Words by Gwen O'Toole
Images supplied

Full of small communities with big hearts and naturally beautiful stretches of farmland, forest walks, waterfalls and locally-made gourmet food and wine, the West Gippsland region is full of incredible experiences.

Pack up the car for an unforgettable adventure. Here’s our guide to some of the best local experiences.

Where to Eat

Eating Out West GippslandFor the last 100 years or more, the region has been predominantly used for dairy production making it a natural evolution to become a tasty destination for cheeses, locally grown produce and winemakers. All this equates to gourmet goods and chefs utilising some of the finest hyper-local ingredients.

Keen on something a little fancy? The hatted Hoggett Kitchen in Warragul specialises in nose-to-tail dining where you can enjoy a wide array of the region’s best produce in one location with views that are equally as special. The decked dining area at Brandy Creek Estate offers a quiet place for a drink and a bite with equally impressive views.

If it’s the casual fare you’re after, Frankies is a local fave amid brunchers with killer coffee, fresh breakfast rolls, toasties and more. If the timing is right, hit up the Warragul Farmers’ Market at Civic Park on the third Saturday of each month where you can gather up the gourmet goods from cheeses to olive oils, fresh bread and so much more to enjoy later.

Outdoor Adventures

West Gipplands WalksLace up the hiking boots, take the stairs up and walk the 21-metre-high boards of Victoria’s tallest wooden trestle bridge. Cycle or hike through gorgeous bushland on the 6-kilometre (return) Noojee Trestle Bridge Rail Trail from the town of Noojee to the Noojee Trestle Bridge. The mostly flat trail is great for families, beginners or those looking for a leisurely ride.

The walk around Toorongo Falls is pretty spectacular with places to picnic with the birdsong overhead. The 2.2 km return walk takes roughly 40 minutes but no rush, you’ll want to take your time here.

Want something more heart-pounding? Take the Blue Dirt shuttle to the top of Mount Baw Baw and mountain bike your way down. There are three difficulty levels for the three-kilometre descent; each one is nothing short of thrilling.

Melbourne’s closest downhill ski resort, Mt Baw Baw is incredibly popular during the snow season when skiers, snowboarders and snow revellers flock to the destination. Visiting during the off-peak green season offers the option of mountain biking and hiking.

History and Culture

WalhallaIt’s hard to visit and not appreciate the history and culture here, so make it a point to visit the mining town of Walhalla where you can explore the ghost towns and historic villages.

Following the discovery of a three-kilometre gold vein running through Walhalla in the 19th century, it surged to house thousands of gold seekers, but today this quiet town is home to roughly 20. Here you can learn about the life of miners, pan for gold at Stringers Creek, explore the old buildings including hotels, shops and churches as well as take a tour down into the long gold mines. Fancy a scare? The ghost tour at the old cemetery might be right up your alley.

The Walhalla Goldfields Railway also runs through some incredible scenery during the 60-minute ride crossing over several trestle bridges. If you stand on the outside platform at the front of the train, you can also get incredible photos.

Wine Down

Wineries West GippslandThis region does pinot noir pretty well, but the cool climate here means there’s much more varieties to enjoy. With a huge array of cellar doors to choose from, you won’t be stuck for options.

Make it a point to visit Ripplebrook Winery, bringing a bit of Sicily to West Gippsland. Giuseppes, the cellar door and restaurant named for the owner’s father, is open on weekends and features some seriously tasty drops that pair well with their shareable menu.

Another worthy stop is Cannibal Creek Winery. Despite the dubious name, the beautifully designed winery and cellar door (open daily) has a beautiful bar to enjoy guided tastings with a cheese and charcuterie board or an indulgent creamy pasta dish.

For those seeking a brew, Five Aces Brewing Co and Bandolier Brewing are your go-to spots for cold ones. Family-owned Bandolier Brewery’s range is inspired by breweries from around the globe, which is why you can enjoy a Belgian Blonde, a Mexican-style lager and an Irish Cream Porter all in Warragul. In Neerim South, Five Aces is also family-owned and operated, serving small-batch craft beer and a menu that pays homage to Gippsland’s quality produce. Their standard brews are always at the ready with a ‘random ace’ tap always pouring a new recipe/style to try.

No doubt this has whet your appetite to explore the region. You’ll only wonder what took you so long.

Getting There

Getting to West Gippsland is easy. From Melbourne, take the South Gippsland Highway from the Princes Highway from Dandenong. By car, the journey will have you at the gateway to West Gippsland in just under two hours and in Walhalla in roughly 2.5 hours.

Alternatively, hop on a V/Line train and make your way to Warragul in roughly the same time.

Champion team open Banksia Wine Bar in McCrae

Words by Richard Cornish
Images supplied

Heading down the southern end of the Nepean Highway, the road runs along the coast, edging the azure waters and the old banksia forest. This is the inspiration for the name famed chef Bernard McCarthy and his partners have given their new wine bar Banksia, at the foot of Arthurs Seat.

The others involved are McCarthy’s partner and front-of-house legend Georgie Linton and owners of Rye Independent Wine Store Ang Strickland and Chantelle Chiron. They have taken over the old brick and timber building that was until recently Kobie Jack’s trattoria that overlooks the banksia forest and McCrae beach.

“There wasn’t a good wine bar on the Peninsula offering wine by the glass from small producers,” says Bernard McCarthy. He made a name for himself winning awards for his progressive take on European classics at Salix at Willow Creek, the site of today’s Jackalope.

We’ve been looking for a space for years and when this one came up late last year we jumped at the chance.

The open room that once housed a wood-fired pizza is now a cool, smooth space to enjoy the sea vibes seated at the blonde timber bar running at the back of the room or sitting at the live-coloured banquettes lining the walls.

Banksia Wine Room

McCarthy cooks an ever-changing menu of 15 small plates such as a super simple caprese of homegrown tomatoes, basil and mozzarella or brined, simmer, skinned and BBQ lamb tongues with local mushrooms and a tangy chermoula or a bigger plate of pillow-like gnocchi with lip-smacking cotechino, classic soft lentils and a sharp cleansing rhubarb crumble.

The wines come from small family businesses from neighbouring areas on the Mornington Peninsula all the way to France. Recent wines included a Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal in Austria to the Bloody Hills Villages Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley. The atmosphere is casual and fun but the attitude the team take to their food and wine is nothing but serious.

THE DETAILS

Who: Banksia Wine Room
What: Excellent small plates and wines by the glass (and bottle).
Where: 677 Point Nepean Rd, McCrae
When: Opened Feb ’23
Why: These people know how to look after people who love good food and wine
Find out more: Banksia Wine Room

We wish to acknowledge the Bunurong people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Sneak Peak: The Bodega is the Mornington Peninsula’s Newest Wine Bar

Words by Gwen O'Toole
Images supplied

The beachside suburb of Dromana is raising a glass to The Bodega, a boutique wine bar, store and deli opening on March 4. What started from a concept created by owners Mariah and Lachlan Barnes at the start of 2020 has come to fruition.

‘Right when Covid hit, we reflected on what we wanted for our future,’ said Mariah, adding that they took the time to consider what they were passionate about and spent the next few years brainstorming, networking, learning about wine and finding the perfect destination.

‘We are not sommeliers, we are no experts – we are two people who love wine, and absolutely love hosting a room full of people and building strong connections,’ she says.

We could see the need and the opportunity for a wine bar and store in Dromana and jumped at the chance.

Both Mariah and Lachlan have come from construction, giving them the unique ability to construct a space for patrons to fully enjoy.
‘The fit-out is a reflection of us, and how inviting and comfortable we want it to be for our customers,’ Mariah adds. ‘It truly is a beautiful little shop – right across from the beach!’

Dromana Wine Bar

With a modern coastal look and feel, The Bodega promises to bring a unique hospitality experience to locals and visitors alike. Offering more than 200 wines by the bottle, and more than 15 wines by the glass, customers enjoy a sip in the shop, discover a favourite, take a bottle home or dine in or alfresco with 40 people in the outdoor space or 35 inside.

Offering not just a selection of local wines, but from across Australia international drops, there will be plenty of new and interesting wines to try.

‘All items within the store are designed to take home, including the deli food, bottled cocktails and beer – we want to ensure that our customers have an outstanding experience whether in-store or at home.’

‘We will offer wine tastings for six staff-picked wines, which will give our customers an opportunity to try something new, and to have a chat with us about wine too.’ She says, adding that wine won’t be the only thing on the menu. They’ll be supporting local brewery Jetty Road with beer on tap and by the can as well as a range of bottled cocktails and non-alcoholic options too.

Wine Bar Mornington Peninsula

As far as the menu, Mariah says the charcuterie boards are a must-try. ‘I wouldn’t go past our burrata salad too – that is going to be a crowd favourite,’ she suggests, adding that they’ll also be stocking bread from the much-loved local favourite, Miller’s Bread Kitchen.

‘There’s nothing better than quality time with family and friends. The Bodega is proud to serve outstanding wine, whether it be in-store or at home, we are here to create an unforgettable experience,’ she says. ‘We believe in quality moments between family and friends, one vino at a time.’

THE DETAILS

WHAT: The Bodega Wine Bar, Store and Deli
WHERE: 133 Point Nepean Road, Dromana
WHEN: 4 March 2023
MORE INFO: The Bodega

We wish to acknowledge the Bunurong people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Slow, self-guided and all inclusive Ballarat tour shows off the best art, food and hidden gems

Words by Anthea Riskas
Images supplied

If the idea of group tours gives you the ick, then sign up for this self-guided, slow travel offering in Ballarat, from local company Hidden Lanes.

The Ballarat Art and Culinary Journey being hosted on Saturday, 4th March, is a hybrid experience combining a hands-on art class, 2 hours of solo walking time with a podcast and digital guidebook for company and lunch at one of The ‘Rat’s best beer barns.

Your day begins at The Lost Ones Makers Studio where you’ll join local artist Pauline O’Shannessy-Dowling for a one-hour creative workshop titled “I Can’t Draw” which leaves no wiggle room for anyone who believes they aren’t creative.

An hour later you begin your meander around some of the town’s more secret spots, with stops of historical and cultural significance and scenic beauty mapped out along your virtual itinerary.
Pop your earbuds in and listen to the tales only locals would know about at each landmark and really lean into the concept of not needing to jam in all the “sights”.

Once you’ve worked up an appetite, it’s time to search for the literal hidden lane that houses Hop Temple, where your lunch and a refreshing beverage are all included in your ticket price.

Tour Ballarat

This venue is the perfect pairing for this style of touring, it’s a welcoming, relaxed, light-filled space, with no pretensions but high standards when it comes to food and drink.

Take your time to enjoy your meal and when you’re refuelled and ready, head back onto the Ballarat streets to tick off the rest of your walking list and figure out the treasure hunt to locate a little culinary treat!

Not so keen on such a prescribed outing or can’t make this particular date? No problem!

Hidden Lanes offer their standard, self-guided tours Wednesday-Saturday, 11am-4pm, which take 3-5 hours to help you discover hidden laneways, art galleries and studios, antique and local gift stores, quirky cafes and beautiful scenery.

There’s no need to rush, when you’ve got a curated, virtual local in your pocket, you’re guaranteed not to miss a thing.

THE DETAILS

Who: Hidden Lanes
What: Ballarat Art and Culinary Journey Self-guided Tour
When: Saturday 4th March
Where: Ballarat
Tickets: Book Here

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Kin – Victoria’s new regional dining destination

Words: Richard Cornish
Images: Richard Cornish and supplied

Victoria has some excellent dining rooms worth the drive. Brae, Lake House, Stefano’s, Hogget, The Bunyip, Provenance, and now Kin. Kin is the Brown siblings’ new fine dining restaurant that replaces the old Terrace at All Saints winery near Rutherglen.

The roomy, warm, and comfortable dining room is the crowning glory of the Brown family’s next-generation refurbishment of the 1864 castellated winery by the banks of the Murray at Wahgunyah. The change is remarkable. Over the past 12 months, their former Indigo Cheese Room has become Bonnie, a casual pizza and fine wine diner. The cellar door has moved to a beautiful new space with a modern museum feel offering paid curated tastings. And now comes Kin.

Take a seat at a leather banquette looking out over the gardens, the vineyards, and the historic Chinese labourer’s quarters. The blonde wooden tables are set with fine Riedel stemware, an indication of the serious approach the Browns take to wine. At one end of the room are three round brick enclave booths. A major feature that could represent old fermenting tanks or the three Brown siblings: Eliza, Angela, and Nicholas.

Taking the reins in the kitchen is the relatively young Jack Cassidy, who has worked at Bistro Guillaume and Mornington Peninsula winery restaurants Jackalope and Paringa Estate. His style is modern, focusing on layered flavours without overworking the dish. There are four entrees, four mains, and four desserts. Choose between $75 for two courses or $95 for three. Spoiler!

The meal starts with a surprise plate of amuse-buches. Half cherry tomatoes with house-made ricotta, a gilda of house-pickled chilli and Mount Ophir olives, and dense lamb capocollo. Order the pillow soft three-day fermented focaccia baked with confit tomato oil to sop up the delicious sauces such as the black garlic puree under the grilled kangaroo skewers. There could be a succulent confit ox heart tomato sitting in a deep dark bowl of delicious tomato water with a fried saltbush crumb.

Jack knows fish and serves perhaps the perfect fillet of rainbow trout, briefly cured to make the flesh dense and the skin crisp; it is briefly pan-fried and served with an umami-rich foamed mussel and chardonnay sauce. The standout dish and a masterpiece in texture is a plate of plump, unctuous scallops crudo sitting with a silky serve of bottarga tarama draped with fine slices of rich, luscious guanciale topped with cured salmon roe.

The skill in the kitchen is all about developing flavour, with unfussed plating up, leaving space for the produce to tell its story and the wine to complete each dish. It is an excellent chance to see All Saints wines in their natural habitat and how they work with food. KIN sits on beautiful, historic grounds in a beautiful historic wine region. It’s worth the drive.

The Details

What: Modern, delicious produce drive menu
Who: Chef Jack Cassidy and the Brown siblings
Where: 205 All Saints Rd, Wahgunyah (10km from Rutherglen in Northern Victoria)
Why: Historic building, great food, excellent wine
When: Open Now
More Info: All Saints Estate

We wish to acknowledge the Yorta Yorta people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.