Words by Amanda Kennedy
Mount Monument Winery in Romsey proves true the old adage good things come to those who wait. First acquired by Nonda Katsalidis in 2005, the multi-stage project has been ageing, almost like a fine wine. If the name rings a bell, it’s because Nonda is one half of Fender Katsalidis, the highly-awarded architectural practice responsible for Hobart’s MONA, the Eureka Tower at Southbank and many more structures around Australia and internationally.
Over the years, the 45ha property has been planted with 1500 olives trees and the area under vine increased by almost half.
‘I think what we’ve been building over the last few years has been really more about water management and trying to increase the bird life to the area by taking the animals of the property and just letting areas self-seed.’ explains Jane Collins, Katsalidis’ partner. ‘We’ve just enjoyed seeing it regenerate, like turning the dam that existed with the previous farming approach into more of a wetlands. That was our starting point.’
A relatively high altitude of 630m makes it possibly the coolest climate in Australia in which to grow grapes and produce wine. Thankfully, winemaker Ben Ranken is no stranger to producing wine in such a cool climate. His own vineyard, Wilimee Wines, is located less than half an hour away.
‘We’re pretty excited about having Ben Ranken wine-making for us, he is a very intelligent, careful, great communicator. It’s been lovely having him involved,’ says Jane. As winner of the 2021 Young Gun of Wine Vigneron amongst his accolades, wine might just run in Ben’s veins. His ancestor, George Ranken, planted some of the first vines in Australia in 1841 in Bathurst, NSW. While the finishing touches are still being made to the whole project, Ben was able to press the first grapes in the winery in March this year.
The winery forms the lower half of a two-storey building which nestles into the hillside. The 60-plus seat restaurant is located upstairs overlooking the vines and east towards the township of Romsey. A cosy cellar door will face onto sculpture-filled grounds, accessible via a vine-covered pergola. The buildings have included water tanks and composting worm farms as part of their design and are built using fire-resistant materials, essential in such a high-risk fire zone. Short term future plans also include several small eco-lodges to provide the full Macedon Ranges accommodation experience complete with stunning sunsets and crisp mornings.
While the winery might be named for the nearby volcanic rock formation, Brock’s Monument, it may soon be eclipsed by the outstanding architecture and sculptures which seem destined to become a drawcard themselves. Jane explains, ‘It was very organic; it’s not like we had a business plan or anything. It’s more of a passion project than anything … and then Nonda just invited a few friends who were sculptors and artists.’
The playful structures invite the observer to look at the environment in new ways – whether it’s Tom Borgas’ Active Form (2019) all hard angles and striking in its Yves Klein electric blue or The Birth Of Zarathustra by Richard Stringer (1991) which will keep an eye on diners with its prominent restaurant position.
They’re all so different, but I think thematically there is something that is very much about a sense of place or how fragile the environment is. There’s something that really connects all of the artists in terms of their connection to conservation. So even though it looks like a random collection in a paddock, when you actually read about the works, there’s something that really ties them all together.
Get inspired with the swoon-worthy Instagram gallery and keep an eye out for opening dates, slated for this Queen’s Birthday long-weekend (11-13 June 2022).
THE DETAILS
WHAT: Mount Monument Winery
WHERE: 1399 Romsey Rd, Romsey
WHEN: Opening Queen’s Birthday long-weekend (11-13 June 2022)
MORE INFO: Mount Monument
We wish to acknowledge the Wurundjeri people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.
