Raise a glass to Gippsland’s newest winery, Carrajung Estate

Words by Tehya Nicholas
Images supplied

What makes a fantastic winery? Is it what’s inside the glass – a crisp drop of Chardonnay or zesty pour of Pinot Noir? Is it about the environment – a warm interior design, a room with a view? Or does it come down to the people – knowledgeable staff with a healthy dose of passion?

For Ivy Huang and Rebeka Morgan, the co-founders of Carrajung Estate, it’s everything. Both women have left no stone unturned in their mission to create a world-class winery and accommodation offering. 

Here, cocooned in the forests of the Strzelecki Ranges, guests can leave the bustle behind and escape to a space of simple pleasures.

Carrajung Winery

The 40-hectare property, formerly the home of Toms Cap Winery, has been entirely renovated and repurposed under one simple guideline: make it feel like home. Huang and Morgan, a builder and founder of BuildHer Collective, alongside John Morgan have remodelled the vineyard restaurant, cellar door and their two-bedroom cottage accommodation called The Nest. 

Each space is cosy, intimate and uncompromising in quality. In the vineyard restaurant, guests are invited into a rustic, open setting overlooking the hills dotted with farm animals (the alpacas, pigs, chickens and goats can all be patted, too.) 

And the beauty continues on the plate. Fresh, seasonal and local ingredients are the heroes, and in the experienced hands of Head Chef Pat Haney, make a sumptuous feast – for the eyes and stomach.

Chef Haney brings over 20 years of industry experience at some of Australia’s top restaurants to Carrajung Estate. He says his philosophy is rooted in a deep respect for the ingredients he uses, and he is a firm believer in sustainable and ethical sourcing practices. 

“With an emphasis on seasonality and sustainability, our dishes feature fresh ingredients sourced directly from nearby farms that celebrate the natural beauty and culinary richness of Gippsland. Through our food, we want to share these growers’ stories,” Huang explains.

Gippsland Winery

Love wine-pairing? The first-ever release of Carrajung Estate’s wines are now rolling out. Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc are all on rotation. These drops are the fruits of two years of collaborative vine management between Carrajung Estate co-founder Adrian Critchlow, Toms Cap founder Graham Morris, and the award-winning Gippsland winemaker of Inverloch’s Dirty Three Wine, Marcus Satchell. 

And when the day is done, you can curl up by the traditional open fireplace at The Nest, or soak in the outdoor bath. The cottage is available to book via their website – and if it’s booked, don’t stress. Renovations of four new cottages are underway and will be ready by next summer.

From the carefully selected grapes to the state-of-the-art equipment, every detail in this new venue has been meticulously planned. The team behind Carrajung Estate have created a truly special Gippsland experience. So good, in fact, it feels like home.


THE DETAILS

WHAT: Carrajung Estate
WHERE: 322 Lays Rd, Willung South
WHEN: Fri-Sun 11am – 2.30pm & Dinner Thurs-Sat 5.30pm – 8.30pm
MORE INFO: Carrajung Estate

We wish to acknowledge the Gunaikurnai people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Heathcote in Autumn – Food, Wine and Craft Beer

Words by Anthea Riskas
Images supplied

The Heathcote region is most well-known for its Shiraz – and rightly so – with the perfect growing conditions for this grape variety thanks to the red, rocky soils of the surrounding mountains. But! There is so much more to explore, enjoy and discover when it comes to eating and drinking in the area.

Whether you’re wanting to fine dine, winery hop or hole up for a casual afternoon in a beer barn, you’ll be absolutely spoiled for choice and will probably need more than just a day trip to pack in all the experiences available.

Start in town and meander along High Street or head for the hills and plan out a driving itinerary. Whatever you decide, make sure you tick off at least a few of our following favourites from your “must visit” list.

Chauncy

Heathcote RestaurantThis fine-dining gem is attracting a huge amount of foodie attention – and earning hats – with the couple at the helm having some big hospitality names on their collective CV.

Parisian-born chef Louis has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants and partner Tess is a sommelier who counts McConnell and Grossi as former employers. This combined experience has led to an elegant, intimate restaurant, housed in a sandstone building, that’s steeped in local history.

Expect a traditional, French, set lunch menu – with a sprinkling of Italian influences – that showcases local produce, surprising and delightful wines and superb service that challenges regional stereotypes.

Open Friday-Monday for lunch and it’s essential to book, or it’ll be c’est la vie.

Take a look here.

Palling Bros Brewery

Heathcote BreweryAt the opposite end of the dining spectrum and a couple of doors up from Chauncy, is the working brewery and beer hall of Palling Bros.

Craft beer enthusiasts will find a pleasing array of offerings for their tasting paddles and everyone else will be catered for with softies, wine and spirits also available.

On Wednesday and Thursday, food is courtesy of Derek and his Tonka truck, serving up toasties from midday-3pm and Friday through to Sunday, the full kitchen menu is available, with burgers, tacos, smoked meats and the usual pub pleasers.

Kid and dog friendly, and with live music on weekends, this is an easy and excellent choice.

More here.

Heathcote Wine Hub

Heathcote Wine HubIf you’re not keen on driving around to sample as many local drops as possible, this wine store and provedore is just a stroll down High Street.

Housed in a charming old wooden church, it is deceptively casual because inside you’ll find over 200 Heathcote wines, an ever-changing tasting menu and some of the most knowledgeable service that extends to the beers, ciders and gins that are also stocked here.

Make a booking and make sure you allot a good few hours of your weekend here because once you get chatting, tasting will turn into snacking, which will turn into a long, lazy lunch and then suddenly you’ve had the best day!

Find out more here.

Shiraz Republic & Cornella Brewery

Heathcote WineryWithin the famous Shiraz wine territory, sits Mt Camel, a micro-zone of growing. And the jewel that sits in its crown, is this destination operation that houses a winery, a brewery, self-contained accommodation and immersive experiences.

Visit the cellar door to sample a tasting flight, try one of 20 beers on tap and kick back and enjoy the view and the tunes over a pizza.

For the full viticulture package, book a cabin, rent a row of vines and get your hands and feet dirty stomping grapes and making your own wine!

Get all the info here.

Silver Spoon Estate

Heathcote WineryIf eco-tourism is your specialist subject, a visit to this off-grid vineyard on Mt Camel is a must.

The entire winery is powered by 64 solar panels and large water tanks, and the grapevines are non-irrigated, meaning only natural rainfall is relied upon to provide hardy, intense flavours.

Creepy crawlies great and small, are allowed to live in harmony and keep pests and disease at bay, with a minimum of chemicals needed to keep crops healthy and in Springtime sheep are grazed to keep the weeds in check.

This enviro ethos brings you vegan-friendly wines, gluten-free and vegetarian bistro options and a sense of relaxed fun when your choices are drops with names like “Monster Shiraz” and “Fandango”.

Details here.

Vinea Marson

Winery HeathcoteMario Marson has brought generations’ worth of growing knowledge and his Italian heritage to this slice of Mt Camel.

Imported grape varietals love the soil here and Vinea Marson has been producing Sangiovese and Nebbiolo with them since 2000. Add to that Rosé, Viognier and classic Prosecco and this becomes the winery to visit with a carload full of different tastes.

The cellar door is steeped in awards and you can gather around the table to enjoy antipasto and foodie collaborations with notables like That’s Amore Cheese, as well as events that pair the vino with fine menu offerings from kitchens such as Ladro.

Get all the details here.


THE DETAILS

Where: Heathcote in Autumn
What: Food, Wine & Craft Beer
More Info: Explore Heathcote

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Annie Smithers announces month-long festival to celebrate 10 year anniversary

Words by Richard Cornish
Images supplied

Annie Smithers is a force of nature. The author, broadcaster, farmer and chef has been championing real seasonal and local cuisine in Central Victoria for decades. She opened the doors to her Trentham restaurant Du Fermier 10 years ago and to celebrate she is closing the restaurant for the month of May.

Instead, she is holding a month-long mini-festival to celebrate the farmers who supply her kitchen, the winemakers who fill her cellar and the women who have mentored her or supported her in the kitchen during her career.

Food Festival TrenthamThe recipe writer for The Saturday Paper and resident chef for Blueprint for Living on ABC Radio National grows much of her fruit and veg at her Lyonville farm, Babbington Park, 10km from Daylesford. The lamb she cooks comes from a farm she can see from her kitchen garden and is grown by farmer Bruce Rolfe. He and Annie are doing an all-day lamb masterclass on May 18 which includes morning tea and a three-course lunch with wine and loads of dishes cooked with tender, sweet, and beautifully full-flavored Suffolk lamb. Annie is also doing a pork, beef, duck and chicken masterclass.

One of the big ticket events is the Mother’s Day Lunch with Stephanie Alexander on Sunday 14th May. Annie spent her early years cooking under Stephanie Alexander at her Hawthorn restaurant and the two have remained close since. They celebrate Mother’s Day with a four-course meal. Annie’s du Fermier is normally open for lunch, but for May only she is opening her doors for Friday night dinner on 5th, 12th, and 19th May.

Expect candles, shared plates and beautiful evening meals cooked with autumnal produce from the kitchen garden. On May 6th and 13th Annie is baking and making charcuterie for her French-style Petite Marche or little market where customers buy produce direct from Annie’s kitchen. Annie is also throwing an afterparty for the Trentham SpudFest starting at 5.30pm where she’ll be serving up her own rendition of potato cakes and pouring vodka made with Trentham potatoes. Gascony is one of Annie’s favourite regions of France and she is revisiting the trips on which she toured the auberges and taverns tasting the traditional dishes, and the honest food of the farmhouses. On Saturday 20th and Sunday 21st she is holding a five-course Gascon feast complete with wine and a limited-edition book about the food of Gascony.

“Du Fermier is all about cooking exceptional fresh produce from the farm and surrounding farms,” says Annie. “This month of celebrations is about putting the people who support our beautiful little French farmhouse style restaurant in a historic weatherboard shop front and foremost.”


THE DETAILS

Who: Celebrity chef Annie Smithers
Where: Du Fermier, Trentham
What: Thirty days of events celebrating local and seasonal produce with a very accomplished chef
When: Month of May 2023
Why: Exclusive and one-off events
More info: Annie Smithers

We wish to acknowledge the Dja Dja Wurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Renowned Peninsula Chef takes the reins at new Queenscliff food offering TARRA

Words by Della Vreeland
Images Chris McConville

One of the Mornington Peninsula’s most renowned chefs is set to take the helm at the latest premier restaurant launching in Queenscliff in time for winter.

Chef Michael Demagistris will take the lead as executive chef at the new restaurant TARRA – opening as part of the multimillion-dollar redevelopment of the Queenscliff Ferry Terminal on the Bellarine.

Michael Demagistris

Operated by Searoad Ferries, the 60-seat contemporary coastal dining experience will boast a menu that not only showcases the finest local produce and seasonal ingredients, but the wealth of experience that Chef Michael will bring to the fold.

Having previously worked at some of Australia’s most prestigious restaurants including Jacques Reymond, Chef Michael’s passion for food has seen him travel the world, working in venues such as Alinea, The Publican and Noma.

Known for his innovative approach to cooking and extensive use of local produce, he says he is looking forward to bringing his passion and expertise to TARRA Queenscliff and developing a menu that highlights the Bellarine’s produce while emphasising his love of foraging.

With a menu inspired by the ocean, land and change of seasons, diners can expect to savour innovative dishes that highlight Chef Michael’s affinity for exploration and interesting ingredients including sea succulents, kelp, samphire, and wild berries.

“I can’t wait to create some truly memorable dishes for our guests,” he says.

Chef Michael will take the reins alongside Head Chef Ryan James who will work with the TARRA team to craft a fresh food vision and menu to transform the restaurant into a unique dining destination.

TARRA is located on the ground floor of the new Queenscliff building – the iconic, architectural, state-of-the-art building that was opened earlier this year and houses Tarra store, food offering and Searoad Ferries.

Sitting against the stunning Port Phillip Bay backdrop, the terminal features a sleek, sophisticated coastal feel that complements the surrounding views with an internal design that equally oozes style and poise.

Bellarine Restaurant

The TARRA team will be give insight into the menu with a cooking demonstration at a Community Open Day held on April 22, which also includes live music, kids entertainment and prize giveaways.

Searoad Ferries COO Dwight Harrison says he was thrilled to have Chef Michael on board and was looking forward to the restaurant’s official opening.

“His passion and his commitment to delivering exceptional dining experiences align perfectly with our vision for the restaurant,” Dwight says.

“The internal fit-out of TARRA is of the highest quality that perfectly complements the surrounding natural environment and we can’t wait for it to be officially opened.”

Australia’s busiest vehicle ferry service, Searoad Ferries, car and passenger ferry service sails between Queenscliff and Sorrento with over 8,200 crossings annually and carries over 950,000 passengers.


THE DETAILS:

WHAT: TARRA Queenscliff
WHEN: The new terminal opens April 20 (Community Open Day – April 22) and TARRA restaurant opening scheduled for mid-year.
FIND OUT MORE: Tarra

We wish to acknowledge the Wadawurrung people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

The long-awaited restaurant opens at Mount Monument and it’s everything we hoped for

Words and images by Jay Dillon

It’s the cellar door and sculpture park that’s been wowing people since it opened at the base of a mamelon (a rocky mound created from volcanic activity) in 2019. Now, a fine-dining restaurant has opened at the front of the building with views across the vineyard towards Mount William and Lancefield.

Chef Ben Salt is a local of nearby Gisborne and has created a four-course set menu for diners ($75pp) with a focus on showcasing local producers, producing minimal waste and complimenting the estate’s cold climate wine varieties.

First course features our favourite cheese makers from Castlemaine ‘The Long Paddock Cheese’ and a selection of cured meats. Next is a kingfish crudo served with citrus slices, pickled fennel and sprigs on top. The main on our visit was the option of a confit duck leg with Shiraz glaze or pork belly soy chilli caramel sauce. The menu changes with the seasons, so check the website when booking to find out what you are in for.

There is also the option to enjoy smaller dishes from the kitchen in the cellar door area like pea and mint arancini and vibrant burrata with this season’s heirloom tomatoes and basil leaves. We highly recommend the oysters with Mt Monument Riesling Mignonette, matched beautifully with a glass of their 2022 Heathcote Greco.

Mount Monument Winery

It’s only the third weekend of the restaurant opening which is a partnership between owners of the property, architects Nonda Katsalidis and Jane Collins with local hospitality veteran Georgia Veitenheimer-Bradwell and the Lewis family.

The fit-out is quite industrial in aesthetic. The truss frame is painted rust red to compliment the simple concrete prefabricated tilt slab with high ceilings. Small sculptural pieces on the back wall are prototypes and ideas developed by Nonda for the sculpture park. The furnishings are dark wood and create a stark silhouette against the light emanating from the windows that look East across the property.

We love how each new addition to this Macedon winery is slowly revealed to us and always comes with a surprising twist, rumours are that the next addition is a small eco accommodation option on the western side of the property with views over Hesket, hanging rock and the stunning sunsets. Stay tuned.


THE DETAILS

What: New restaurant for Mount Monument Wines
When: Friday 11am – 8pm, Saturday and Sunday 11am – 4pm
Where:
1399 Romsey Rd, Romsey
How Much: Set course $75pp
More Info: Mount Monument

We wish to acknowledge the Wurundjeri people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Our guide to the best of West Gippsland that’ll have you loving it as much as a local

Words by Gwen O'Toole
Images supplied

Full of small communities with big hearts and naturally beautiful stretches of farmland, forest walks, waterfalls and locally-made gourmet food and wine, the West Gippsland region is full of incredible experiences.

Pack up the car for an unforgettable adventure. Here’s our guide to some of the best local experiences.

Where to Eat

Eating Out West GippslandFor the last 100 years or more, the region has been predominantly used for dairy production making it a natural evolution to become a tasty destination for cheeses, locally grown produce and winemakers. All this equates to gourmet goods and chefs utilising some of the finest hyper-local ingredients.

Keen on something a little fancy? The hatted Hoggett Kitchen in Warragul specialises in nose-to-tail dining where you can enjoy a wide array of the region’s best produce in one location with views that are equally as special. The decked dining area at Brandy Creek Estate offers a quiet place for a drink and a bite with equally impressive views.

If it’s the casual fare you’re after, Frankies is a local fave amid brunchers with killer coffee, fresh breakfast rolls, toasties and more. If the timing is right, hit up the Warragul Farmers’ Market at Civic Park on the third Saturday of each month where you can gather up the gourmet goods from cheeses to olive oils, fresh bread and so much more to enjoy later.

Outdoor Adventures

West Gipplands WalksLace up the hiking boots, take the stairs up and walk the 21-metre-high boards of Victoria’s tallest wooden trestle bridge. Cycle or hike through gorgeous bushland on the 6-kilometre (return) Noojee Trestle Bridge Rail Trail from the town of Noojee to the Noojee Trestle Bridge. The mostly flat trail is great for families, beginners or those looking for a leisurely ride.

The walk around Toorongo Falls is pretty spectacular with places to picnic with the birdsong overhead. The 2.2 km return walk takes roughly 40 minutes but no rush, you’ll want to take your time here.

Want something more heart-pounding? Take the Blue Dirt shuttle to the top of Mount Baw Baw and mountain bike your way down. There are three difficulty levels for the three-kilometre descent; each one is nothing short of thrilling.

Melbourne’s closest downhill ski resort, Mt Baw Baw is incredibly popular during the snow season when skiers, snowboarders and snow revellers flock to the destination. Visiting during the off-peak green season offers the option of mountain biking and hiking.

History and Culture

WalhallaIt’s hard to visit and not appreciate the history and culture here, so make it a point to visit the mining town of Walhalla where you can explore the ghost towns and historic villages.

Following the discovery of a three-kilometre gold vein running through Walhalla in the 19th century, it surged to house thousands of gold seekers, but today this quiet town is home to roughly 20. Here you can learn about the life of miners, pan for gold at Stringers Creek, explore the old buildings including hotels, shops and churches as well as take a tour down into the long gold mines. Fancy a scare? The ghost tour at the old cemetery might be right up your alley.

The Walhalla Goldfields Railway also runs through some incredible scenery during the 60-minute ride crossing over several trestle bridges. If you stand on the outside platform at the front of the train, you can also get incredible photos.

Wine Down

Wineries West GippslandThis region does pinot noir pretty well, but the cool climate here means there’s much more varieties to enjoy. With a huge array of cellar doors to choose from, you won’t be stuck for options.

Make it a point to visit Ripplebrook Winery, bringing a bit of Sicily to West Gippsland. Giuseppes, the cellar door and restaurant named for the owner’s father, is open on weekends and features some seriously tasty drops that pair well with their shareable menu.

Another worthy stop is Cannibal Creek Winery. Despite the dubious name, the beautifully designed winery and cellar door (open daily) has a beautiful bar to enjoy guided tastings with a cheese and charcuterie board or an indulgent creamy pasta dish.

For those seeking a brew, Five Aces Brewing Co and Bandolier Brewing are your go-to spots for cold ones. Family-owned Bandolier Brewery’s range is inspired by breweries from around the globe, which is why you can enjoy a Belgian Blonde, a Mexican-style lager and an Irish Cream Porter all in Warragul. In Neerim South, Five Aces is also family-owned and operated, serving small-batch craft beer and a menu that pays homage to Gippsland’s quality produce. Their standard brews are always at the ready with a ‘random ace’ tap always pouring a new recipe/style to try.

No doubt this has whet your appetite to explore the region. You’ll only wonder what took you so long.

Getting There

Getting to West Gippsland is easy. From Melbourne, take the South Gippsland Highway from the Princes Highway from Dandenong. By car, the journey will have you at the gateway to West Gippsland in just under two hours and in Walhalla in roughly 2.5 hours.

Alternatively, hop on a V/Line train and make your way to Warragul in roughly the same time.

Champion team open Banksia Wine Bar in McCrae

Words by Richard Cornish
Images supplied

Heading down the southern end of the Nepean Highway, the road runs along the coast, edging the azure waters and the old banksia forest. This is the inspiration for the name famed chef Bernard McCarthy and his partners have given their new wine bar Banksia, at the foot of Arthurs Seat.

The others involved are McCarthy’s partner and front-of-house legend Georgie Linton and owners of Rye Independent Wine Store Ang Strickland and Chantelle Chiron. They have taken over the old brick and timber building that was until recently Kobie Jack’s trattoria that overlooks the banksia forest and McCrae beach.

“There wasn’t a good wine bar on the Peninsula offering wine by the glass from small producers,” says Bernard McCarthy. He made a name for himself winning awards for his progressive take on European classics at Salix at Willow Creek, the site of today’s Jackalope.

We’ve been looking for a space for years and when this one came up late last year we jumped at the chance.

The open room that once housed a wood-fired pizza is now a cool, smooth space to enjoy the sea vibes seated at the blonde timber bar running at the back of the room or sitting at the live-coloured banquettes lining the walls.

Banksia Wine Room

McCarthy cooks an ever-changing menu of 15 small plates such as a super simple caprese of homegrown tomatoes, basil and mozzarella or brined, simmer, skinned and BBQ lamb tongues with local mushrooms and a tangy chermoula or a bigger plate of pillow-like gnocchi with lip-smacking cotechino, classic soft lentils and a sharp cleansing rhubarb crumble.

The wines come from small family businesses from neighbouring areas on the Mornington Peninsula all the way to France. Recent wines included a Grüner Veltliner from Kamptal in Austria to the Bloody Hills Villages Chardonnay from the Yarra Valley. The atmosphere is casual and fun but the attitude the team take to their food and wine is nothing but serious.


THE DETAILS

Who: Banksia Wine Room
What: Excellent small plates and wines by the glass (and bottle).
Where: 677 Point Nepean Rd, McCrae
When: Opened Feb ’23
Why: These people know how to look after people who love good food and wine
Find out more: Banksia Wine Room

We wish to acknowledge the Bunurong people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Sneak Peak: The Bodega is the Mornington Peninsula’s Newest Wine Bar

Words by Gwen O'Toole
Images supplied

The beachside suburb of Dromana is raising a glass to The Bodega, a boutique wine bar, store and deli opening on March 4. What started from a concept created by owners Mariah and Lachlan Barnes at the start of 2020 has come to fruition.

‘Right when Covid hit, we reflected on what we wanted for our future,’ said Mariah, adding that they took the time to consider what they were passionate about and spent the next few years brainstorming, networking, learning about wine and finding the perfect destination.

‘We are not sommeliers, we are no experts – we are two people who love wine, and absolutely love hosting a room full of people and building strong connections,’ she says.

We could see the need and the opportunity for a wine bar and store in Dromana and jumped at the chance.

Both Mariah and Lachlan have come from construction, giving them the unique ability to construct a space for patrons to fully enjoy.
‘The fit-out is a reflection of us, and how inviting and comfortable we want it to be for our customers,’ Mariah adds. ‘It truly is a beautiful little shop – right across from the beach!’

Dromana Wine Bar

With a modern coastal look and feel, The Bodega promises to bring a unique hospitality experience to locals and visitors alike. Offering more than 200 wines by the bottle, and more than 15 wines by the glass, customers enjoy a sip in the shop, discover a favourite, take a bottle home or dine in or alfresco with 40 people in the outdoor space or 35 inside.

Offering not just a selection of local wines, but from across Australia international drops, there will be plenty of new and interesting wines to try.

‘All items within the store are designed to take home, including the deli food, bottled cocktails and beer – we want to ensure that our customers have an outstanding experience whether in-store or at home.’

‘We will offer wine tastings for six staff-picked wines, which will give our customers an opportunity to try something new, and to have a chat with us about wine too.’ She says, adding that wine won’t be the only thing on the menu. They’ll be supporting local brewery Jetty Road with beer on tap and by the can as well as a range of bottled cocktails and non-alcoholic options too.

Wine Bar Mornington Peninsula

As far as the menu, Mariah says the charcuterie boards are a must-try. ‘I wouldn’t go past our burrata salad too – that is going to be a crowd favourite,’ she suggests, adding that they’ll also be stocking bread from the much-loved local favourite, Miller’s Bread Kitchen.

‘There’s nothing better than quality time with family and friends. The Bodega is proud to serve outstanding wine, whether it be in-store or at home, we are here to create an unforgettable experience,’ she says. ‘We believe in quality moments between family and friends, one vino at a time.’


THE DETAILS

WHAT: The Bodega Wine Bar, Store and Deli
WHERE: 133 Point Nepean Road, Dromana
WHEN: 4 March 2023
MORE INFO: The Bodega

We wish to acknowledge the Bunurong people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Kin – Victoria’s new regional dining destination

Words: Richard Cornish
Images: Richard Cornish and supplied

Victoria has some excellent dining rooms worth the drive. Brae, Lake House, Stefano’s, Hogget, The Bunyip, Provenance, and now Kin. Kin is the Brown siblings’ new fine dining restaurant that replaces the old Terrace at All Saints winery near Rutherglen.

The roomy, warm, and comfortable dining room is the crowning glory of the Brown family’s next-generation refurbishment of the 1864 castellated winery by the banks of the Murray at Wahgunyah. The change is remarkable. Over the past 12 months, their former Indigo Cheese Room has become Bonnie, a casual pizza and fine wine diner. The cellar door has moved to a beautiful new space with a modern museum feel offering paid curated tastings. And now comes Kin.

Take a seat at a leather banquette looking out over the gardens, the vineyards, and the historic Chinese labourer’s quarters. The blonde wooden tables are set with fine Riedel stemware, an indication of the serious approach the Browns take to wine. At one end of the room are three round brick enclave booths. A major feature that could represent old fermenting tanks or the three Brown siblings: Eliza, Angela, and Nicholas.

Taking the reins in the kitchen is the relatively young Jack Cassidy, who has worked at Bistro Guillaume and Mornington Peninsula winery restaurants Jackalope and Paringa Estate. His style is modern, focusing on layered flavours without overworking the dish. There are four entrees, four mains, and four desserts. Choose between $75 for two courses or $95 for three. Spoiler!

The meal starts with a surprise plate of amuse-buches. Half cherry tomatoes with house-made ricotta, a gilda of house-pickled chilli and Mount Ophir olives, and dense lamb capocollo. Order the pillow soft three-day fermented focaccia baked with confit tomato oil to sop up the delicious sauces such as the black garlic puree under the grilled kangaroo skewers. There could be a succulent confit ox heart tomato sitting in a deep dark bowl of delicious tomato water with a fried saltbush crumb.

Jack knows fish and serves perhaps the perfect fillet of rainbow trout, briefly cured to make the flesh dense and the skin crisp; it is briefly pan-fried and served with an umami-rich foamed mussel and chardonnay sauce. The standout dish and a masterpiece in texture is a plate of plump, unctuous scallops crudo sitting with a silky serve of bottarga tarama draped with fine slices of rich, luscious guanciale topped with cured salmon roe.

The skill in the kitchen is all about developing flavour, with unfussed plating up, leaving space for the produce to tell its story and the wine to complete each dish. It is an excellent chance to see All Saints wines in their natural habitat and how they work with food. KIN sits on beautiful, historic grounds in a beautiful historic wine region. It’s worth the drive.


The Details

What: Modern, delicious produce drive menu
Who: Chef Jack Cassidy and the Brown siblings
Where: 205 All Saints Rd, Wahgunyah (10km from Rutherglen in Northern Victoria)
Why: Historic building, great food, excellent wine
When: Open Now
More Info: All Saints Estate

We wish to acknowledge the Yorta Yorta people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.

Leading Heathcote producers release three new sparkling summer drinks

Words by Tehya Nicholas
Images supplied

As summer slowly grinds itself into gear and shakes away the droplets of the wettest spring on record, Victorians are beginning to stock up their esky’s with summertime bevvys. Two Heathcote businesses, Shiraz Republic and Cornella Brewery, have teamed up to release a line of fresh, sparkling drinks fit for the occasion.

Located in the Central Victorian region of Heathcote, renowned for it’s fertile Cambrian soil and award-winning reds, Shiraz Republic and Cornella Brewery are neighbouring businesses with old friends at the helm. Spencer Page owns and brews hazy beers at Cornella, while Matt van Run is a winemaker at Shiraz Republic. This season they have joined forces to release three new canned drinks: the New Tinto de Verano Shiraz & Lemon Spritzer, a Skin Contact White Pet Nat and a Grenache Rosé Pet Nat

Lovers of Spanish cocktails will be familiar with Tinto de Verano Shiraz, a shiraz and lemon spritzer that is lighter than its more familiar cousin Sangria. Brewed to 5% and packaged in a can, Shiraz Republic/Cornella Brewery’s brew sits perfectly alongside a seltzer, beer or fizzer for the Australian summer.

Initially made in small batches for the Shiraz Republic Cellar Door, the Tinto de Verano Shiraz & Lemon Spritzer proved such a crowd-pleaser that Page and van Run began packaging the product at their onsite brewery, initially by hand in bottles. Flash forward a few months and they’re shipping slabs across the country.

“It is the perfect drink to go with a sunny afternoon, at a BBQ, festival or anywhere really. At first, it was a challenge to sell to customers, because it’s a bit out of the ordinary, but once customers taste it, they are hooked. Anyone who has travelled to Spain would recognise Tinto as a classic summery Spanish cocktail. It’s a popular drink worldwide, albeit under the guise of several different monikers and regional names,” said Page.

The other pair of beverages, the French Pétillant Naturel’s—which translates to “naturally sparkling”—are additive, preservative and and sulphite light free wines, each with a crisp, tart flavour. The Skin Contact White features yellow muscat, fermented on skins for five days, then fermented to dry and is tart, with notes of pineapple and lemon myrtle. While the Grenache Rosé, pressed directly off the skins and fermented at a controlled temperature until racking into a tank for carbonation, has notes of peach & strawberry with a subtle, delectable funkiness. Both are canned for the ultimate convenience.

Carefully prepared and beautifully designed, these drinks will pair just as well at your backyard barbeque as with a fancy charcuterie board. All are available to purchase online, at the Shiraz Republic Cellar Door, or at select stockists.


THE DETAILS
WHAT: New release of canned alcoholic drinks
WHERE: Shiraz Republic and Cornella Brewery
WHEN: Available now
MORE INFO: Shiraz Republic

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