Words by Amanda Kennedy
Mount Monument Winery in Romsey proves true the old adage good things come to those who wait. First acquired by Nonda Katsalidis in 2005, the multi-stage project has been ageing, almost like a fine wine. If the name rings a bell, it’s because Nonda is one half of Fender Katsalidis, the highly-awarded architectural practice responsible for Hobart’s MONA, the Eureka Tower at Southbank and many more structures around Australia and internationally.
Over the years, the 45ha property has been planted with 1500 olives trees and the area under vine increased by almost half.
‘I think what we’ve been building over the last few years has been really more about water management and trying to increase the bird life to the area by taking the animals of the property and just letting areas self-seed.’ explains Jane Collins, Katsalidis’ partner. ‘We’ve just enjoyed seeing it regenerate, like turning the dam that existed with the previous farming approach into more of a wetlands. That was our starting point.’
A relatively high altitude of 630m makes it possibly the coolest climate in Australia in which to grow grapes and produce wine. Thankfully, winemaker Ben Ranken is no stranger to producing wine in such a cool climate. His own vineyard, Wilimee Wines, is located less than half an hour away.
‘We’re pretty excited about having Ben Ranken wine-making for us, he is a very intelligent, careful, great communicator. It’s been lovely having him involved,’ says Jane. As winner of the 2021 Young Gun of Wine Vigneron amongst his accolades, wine might just run in Ben’s veins. His ancestor, George Ranken, planted some of the first vines in Australia in 1841 in Bathurst, NSW. While the finishing touches are still being made to the whole project, Ben was able to press the first grapes in the winery in March this year.
The winery forms the lower half of a two-storey building which nestles into the hillside. The 60-plus seat restaurant is located upstairs overlooking the vines and east towards the township of Romsey. A cosy cellar door will face onto sculpture-filled grounds, accessible via a vine-covered pergola. The buildings have included water tanks and composting worm farms as part of their design and are built using fire-resistant materials, essential in such a high-risk fire zone. Short term future plans also include several small eco-lodges to provide the full Macedon Ranges accommodation experience complete with stunning sunsets and crisp mornings.
While the winery might be named for the nearby volcanic rock formation, Brock’s Monument, it may soon be eclipsed by the outstanding architecture and sculptures which seem destined to become a drawcard themselves. Jane explains, ‘It was very organic; it’s not like we had a business plan or anything. It’s more of a passion project than anything … and then Nonda just invited a few friends who were sculptors and artists.’
The playful structures invite the observer to look at the environment in new ways – whether it’s Tom Borgas’ Active Form (2019) all hard angles and striking in its Yves Klein electric blue or The Birth Of Zarathustra by Richard Stringer (1991) which will keep an eye on diners with its prominent restaurant position.
They’re all so different, but I think thematically there is something that is very much about a sense of place or how fragile the environment is. There’s something that really connects all of the artists in terms of their connection to conservation. So even though it looks like a random collection in a paddock, when you actually read about the works, there’s something that really ties them all together.
Get inspired with the swoon-worthy Instagram gallery and keep an eye out for opening dates, slated for this Queen’s Birthday long-weekend (11-13 June 2022).
THE DETAILS
WHAT: Mount Monument Winery
WHERE: 1399 Romsey Rd, Romsey
WHEN: Opening Queen’s Birthday long-weekend (11-13 June 2022)
MORE INFO: Mount Monument
We wish to acknowledge the Wurundjeri people as traditional owners of this land and to pay our respects to their Elders, past and present.
It is a place that is filled with a rich history, both recent and more ancient. A place of sweeping landscapes, enchanting waterways and stunning scenic drives, all within an easy drive out of Melbourne.
On the edge of the Yarra Valley is the (in)famous Black Spur Drive. Marvel as the road twists and turns beneath towering eucalypts and movie-worthy mist. Soon enough you arrive in Marysville, a pretty little town with a big heart. It is also a convenient jumping-off point to visit Lake Mountain, with plenty for adventure seekers no matter the time of year.
Next up is the town of Eildon and one of Victoria’s largest man-made lakes, with a whopping 500km coastline.
Our next stop is Yea – yay! A perennially popular stopping-off point to refuel both the car and the driver, Yea easily recalls the grandeur of the area’s gold mining past with historic buildings and graceful wide streets. It is also where the Goulburn River meets the Yea River and the
A short drive and it’s on to the district of Trawool, for there is no township as such. It is here that the Goulburn Valley Hwy plays cat and mouse with the Goulburn River and its lagoons. Holiday makers have been visiting Trawool Valley from the early 1900s to take in the area’s scenic charms and it’s easy to see why. A visit to the iconic
Next stop is Tallarook and the start of the 134 km
A short drive from Tallarook is Seymour, located on the banks of the beautiful Goulburn River. Very much the platonic ideal of a country town with its wide, welcoming streets and riverside parks, Seymour has always been a major stop on the Melbourne-Sydney route. The area has also had strong military connections since the establishment of a nearby training camp prior to WW1 and then later Puckapunyal Army Base.
The historic township of Avenel was established in 1849 as a stop-over point between Melbourne and Albury. It is also known as the place where Ned Kelly’s family lived in the 1806s. Ned is now known as a bushranger and outlaw, but he was once hailed a hero after rescuing a young boy from drowning in a local creek.
Nagambie calls and it’s our next stop. It is little wonder wineries are a great drawcard of Nagambie and surrounds. The cool climate (influenced by the Goulburn River and Lake Nagambie) combined with the area’s red sandy loam soil adds up to a distinctive wine region.
Our last stop is Euroa at the foothills of the Strathbogie Ranges. You’re definitely in Kelly country now – Ned Kelly and his gang bank robbed a local bank here in 1878. These days the town is a good base to explore the nearby Strathbogies, take a scenic drive to the Gooram waterfalls or perhaps take a quick dip in one of the popular swimming holes if weather allows.
